Walking the North Downs Way Section 2: Guildford to Westhumble
Welcome back to the NDW, or hello again if you’re a long-legged fast walker doing section 1 and 2 in one go. If so, hold your horses, I’ll be with you in a second.
First, a little note on logistics: As these are linear walks (starting and finishing in different places), you might want to do a bit more research on how to get back at the end of the day depending on your mode of transport. If you’re going by car, you can probably just buy a train ticket back to the start, so Box Hill & Westhumble to Guildford Station in this case. I did everything by train and usually got away with return tickets as some of the end points could have been part of the outgoing journey. It would have been a slightly outlandish and rather scenic route at times but staff are usually quite relaxed on the weekend, especially on Sundays, and let you through if you run into non-cooperative barriers. If you’re a local, you know what to do, so just ignore me and let’s get back on the trail.
Section 2: Guildford to Westhumble (Dorking), 13 miles (21 km)
The second NDW section starts off in Guildford. If you exit Guildford Station, walk down to the river, and yes, absolutely, let’s walk this Wey… the River Wey that is, and head eastward past the White House pub, which I hope you took advantage of after finishing the previous section. Head right back where we left off last time, the footbridge crossing the river where we will now pick up the patient long-legged walkers who are already warmed up and ready to go.
It’s probably worth noting that the Wey River walk is quite popular for dog walkers and runners, so be prepared for oncoming traffic — lots of furry and not so furry legs coming your way, definitely not the worst way to start your day.
Once you’ve passed the bridge, turn left beside a carved post commemorating the Shalford House Estate and then follow a gravel path bending right leading away from the river. You will reach Shalford Park via another wooden footbridge, pass through a gate at a line of trees, to then bear slightly left across a playing field. This bit seems odd but you’re heading the right way, assuming you do hit a pair of wooden gates which you will go through to reach Shalford Road, the official end of section 1.
I hope you agree that this end point felt a bit less satisfying than the White House pub finish? If so, you’re very welcome. In addition to that, finishing section 1 where I did meant that you had a chance to get familiar and used to the name of our current trail first before I throw in another one, as you will frequently come across the ‘Pilgrims Way’ along your journey as well. It’s the name of the road that intersects with Shalford Road, which we will follow for a little while, 400 metres to be precise.
Spotting the Pilgrim’s Way sign is definitely not a bad thing as it often means you’re on track or not far off, because similar to the North Downs Way, it’s a route that leads from West to East along the North Downs whereby the Pilgrim’s Way starts at Winchester Cathedral in Hampshire. It goes all the way to the shrine of Thomas Becket at Canterbury Cathedral in Kent and follows a pre-existing ancient trackway dating back to 600-450 BC, some even think Stone Age. In contrast to the NDW, which follows the crest of the southern escarpment of the North Downs and tracks along their lower slopes, the Pilgrim’s Way appears to keep to the spring line.
So, if you do spot a Pilgrim’s sign, happy days, but don’t give in to the temptation to just follow since we are heading to Dover, at least that’s where I’m taking you first before looking into the Canterbury Loop. With that in mind, onwards we go.
Walking along the footpath on the left-hand side for 400 metres, you will pass Clifford Manor Road before the Pilgrim’s Way will bend left to become Echo Pit Road. That’s when you need to wave goodbye to the Pilgrim’s Way and start following the acorn again which, as we learned by now, marks the NDW start to finish. Pay good attention here as you’ll have to cross over the road, walk right along a metalled drive to a junction by a small car park, pass Chantry Cottage and then bear left where the track will finally lead you back into a more wooded section of the trail. From there, you can relax again, stroll along and maybe even daydream a bit whilst away from traffic and civilisation. Do look up ones in a while when the trees open up and offer some lovely views — you’ll pass by an opening near South Warren Farm which has a riding centre, so you might be able to spot some of their beautiful creatures, if they haven’t come your way yet.
After having had some quiet thinking time, you will eventually see light and people again once the trees open up to reveal St Martha’s Church. It’s a great spot for a little tea break as the view is simply gorgeous, definitely a view I wouldn’t mind as final resting place, or for a few minutes while munching on some biscuits.
Once watered and fed, it’s time to move on and not do what I did for a change, as I walked straight into my second navigational mishap — I know, only two sections in and I did it again. Part of the fun we said, right? And not only fun but also quite humbling at times if you come across lovely saviours like a local mother who was already chasing around two little girls having the time of their lives running around in their wellies. Apparently, that wasn’t enough, so she decided to pick up another adult-sized child who momentarily lost her way.
While she couldn’t help me figure out life’s conundrums I was pondering about that day, she did get me back on track and dropped me off at a path intersection I must have missed just after leaving the church ground which you are supposed to leave by the gate at its far east end, next to Yvonne Arnaud’s memorial stone. From there, stay on the broad sandy ridge which will split into multiple forks where you need to pay close attention to sign posts. I started writing out path descriptions but they sounded more confusing than helpful, wherefore I thought I leave this passage up to you, so you can choose your own adventure hopefully bringing you across some friendly locals as well, or allow you to showcase your magnificent pathfinder skills. Either way, do let me know how you got on — it would be interesting to hear if the sign I thought I followed led you down the right path or set you up for failure (or let’s say more scenic routes) as well. Drop me a message via my contact form or comment below.
Before you give it a whirl though, let me show you my favourite bit of section 2 which might affect your planning for the day. If I was to walk it again, I’d probably spend a bit more time there than with tea and biscuits at the church.
After walking through some gorgeous grassy slopes and sandy ridges, you’ll eventually find yourself surrounded by trees and shrubs for quite a while before you hit a sign you DO NOT want to miss. It will show you the direction to ‘Silent Pool,’ a famed beauty spot in this area, which is not known for swimming, but you could probably drown your sorrows there if needed.
Since 2014, the spring-fed lake called Silent Pool is providing one of the main ingredients for the production of gin at the distillery right next to it which incorporated its glorious blue colour in their brand design which is just as lovely as their boozy products.
Being a sucker for fairy tales and mysteries, I can’t pass by without sharing two little anecdotes which might come in handy when conversational topics run low along today’s 21 km track. According to some stories, Silent Pool is actually a sacred site. It’s linked to a folklore saying that King John abducted a woodcutter’s daughter, a maiden (of course), who was swept off her feet, onto his horse, and then forced into the deep water where she drowned, and to this day, can be seen at midnight. Not sure if that’s the secret ingredient but it works for me.
Even better yet, speaking of murder mysteries — in December 1926, people feared that crime writer Agatha Christie might have drowned in said lake herself as her car was discovered nearby Newlands Corner. Agatha reappeared, in human form, unlike King John’s poor victim, but still a rather neat story I thought and perfect little warning for the ones who do like to overindulge.
Please don’t go overboard, literally, and maybe pop into the cheese shop that’s conveniently located on the same property, to soak up the booze before making your way back on the trail. If that tickles your fancy, beware though, the Silent Pool site is 750 metres off route, it’s steeply downhill and then, you might have guessed it, steeply back up again, so plan and drink wisely.
I’ve only done both separately, the hike and the distillery, so am not sure how combining it works out — it does sound like a great idea to me and is on the list for my parents’ next visit but if you give it a go and feel differently about it, do let me know. I’m sure I’d be able to muscle through but my peeps might not be as amused, especially after I already chased them up Box Hill on one of the hottest summer days last year — gin and Box Hill appear to have the same effect on facial colour.*
*Hi Mom! Hi Dad! As always, thanks for reading! Let’s take the lift next time around, shall we. 👋 🙂
While you might have just had a little chuckle on my parents’ behalf, I’m afraid to say that this popular lung buster shall await you in section 3. But let’s not think about that one just yet and finish section 2 for now which will lead you passed a little family farm further on, and a few more open fields providing lovely views no matter the weather.
Towards the end, you’ll walk by the lofty St Barnabas Church on Ranmore Common, some vineyards — if gin didn’t do the trick — as well as some of the cheesiest but yet nicest garden deco one can imagine when finishing this section in Westhumble making you wonder what might be up next, but here a little summary of what we spotted today:
Again, I do hope you enjoyed this little walk and can put some of the information and tales to use at some point.
Two sections done, 13 more to go… See you at the next one!
When was I there? 18 August 2019
Section 3:
10 miles (16 km)
Section 2:
13 miles (21 km)
Section 1:
11 miles (17.7 km)
